ANYONE who aspires to be a serious wine drinker, proclaimed the legendary 18th Century wit and scholar, Samuel Johnston, ‘must drink Claret.’
A
few thousand miles across the Atlantic and some 250 years later, it is
pleasing to note that there are plenty of Sunnyside residents who are
very serious wine drinkers indeed, to the extent that so many of them
are turning up in Claret, a smart new wine-bar overlooking the
corner of Skillman Avenue and 46th Street.
Named after the English term for red wines produced in the Bordeaux
region of France, Claret is an interestingly progressive development for Sunnyside,
which is well known for its ready selection of no frills, traditional
Irish taverns catering to the needs of the area’s most dedicated pub
crawlers. But there has always been an under-served niche here, a
longing for something similar to the fashionably low-key yet chic brasseries and wine savvy bars that have been un-popping their corks throughout Manhattan.
Many residents, myself included, have hankered after a retreat within
walking distance from home, that would combine all the elegant sophistication of
a candle-lit downtown wine-bar with the easy-going charm of a
neighborhood local. And for a while, this need was aptly satisfied by
the lovely Quaint, with its simple menu of home cooked New American meals and tempting mix of wines, beers and cocktails. It quickly became
apparent, though, from the enthusiastic response to Tim Chen’s place, that
there is definitely a market for these upscale, yet still
affordable wining and dining experiences in Sunnyside.
And so Claret opened its doors in December 2008, under the carefully deployed management of Irish owners, Jean Clancy and Niall Costello. Having always enjoyed an indisputable love of good food and wine, they often engaged in late night conversations about one day introducing a different type of bar to Sunnyside, with an alluring choice of Old and New World bottles, perhaps some cheese plates and other light tapas to whet the palate. Like most late night conversations, they never expected that it would amount to much. Until one day, in October 2007, Niall’s wife noticed that an old pharmacy round the corner had closed down and the lease was up for offers.
They all agreed it was an ideal location for a wine-bar. That it would
be utter madness even to consider it. And that they could never afford
it. Regardless, inquiries were made and a few tentative steps taken to
pursue the crackpot idea anyway. In no time at all, those vague
dinnertime
chats turned into a daunting reality as notional ambitions finally took
shape. Their days became fraught with
the pressures of business: raising funds, sweet-talking the bank,
overseeing renovations, negotiating permit applications and zoning
laws, not to mention the multiple tastings required to create that
perfect, crowd pleasing menu.
Claret currently offers a head-spinning selection of around 40 domestic
and international red, white and sparkling wines by the glass and
carafe, with a total of 80 available for purchase by the bottle. It's
difficult to know where to start, but ask the owners, or the
ever-helpful bartender Matan for guidance and they will be happy to
provide a tasting or two until you find your feet. And then promptly be
prepared to lose those feet after partaking of a few generously poured
glasses.
My favorites, at the moment, are the Trevor Jones 'Boots'
Grenache (2007) from Australia ("ripe black cherry fruit overlaid with
dark chocolate and violet flower perfume") and the Spanish Borsao
Crianza Seleccion (2005). Moving to white, I'm quite partial to the
crisp New Zealand Mud House Sauvignon Blanc (2007) or the Domaine Serve
Laporte Sancerre (2006) from the Loire Valley in France. (As I am
passionate about the need for thorough investigative reporting in these
matters, I do plan to work my way through everything on the list, until
the debit card finally gets refused and/or confiscated by the bank. It
goes without saying that I would not attempt to complete such an endeavor in the one sitting, at least, certainly not on a weeknight).
To compliment the grape, there are also some delicious small dishes to choose from. Citrus marinated olives, roasted spiced nuts or a fresh swirl of hummus with toasted pita points are a delectable savory start. As for the cheese and charcuterie plates, perhaps a wedge or two of creamy Brie De Nangis or Fontina D'Aosta with some spicy chorizo morsels and piquant Spanish Jamon de Serrano might help that glass of Domaine de Valettes Cabernet Franc (2006) go down all the more smoothly. For those taking their seats with a more substantial appetite, try the earthy maitake mushroom and red onion panini which comes with a lightly dressed baby arugula salad on the side. Or the richly aromatic and filling black truffle infused macaroni and cheese, pure decadence in a simple white bowl and fast becoming Claret's signature dish.
Inside,
the atmosphere is warmly convivial: polished oak floors, fresh cut
flowers and exposed brick walls decorated with a bohemian collection of
paintings from local artists.
But Claret's most attractive feature may well be its huge glass windows looking onto Skillman Avenue, ready made to
capture the glorious rosy glow of the late afternoon sun, something
that will no doubt be enjoyed by many of us over a glass or two of
chilled prosecco or a zesty tangerine mimosa. At brunch, the windows are thrown wide open - grab one of the adjacent seats to enjoy the fresh breeze and watch the neighborhood characters strolling by. The bar has recently been granted a sidewalk license, so outside dining is now available around the corner on 46th Street, still a rare treat in Sunnyside.
As the age old Latin saying goes, "It is well to remember that there are five reasons for drinking: the
arrival of a friend; one's present or future thirst; the excellence of the
wine; or any other reason." With the welcome addition of Claret to the neighborhood, we now have an easy excuse to enjoy it all - right in our own backyard.
